Dusty, stony, and Szechuan pepper inflections to red fruits and game mark the nose of the Pousse d’Or 2007 Volnay Clos d’Audignac, which fills the mouth with fresh red raspberry and clean meat stock, denying the gamey, pungent intimations of the nose. Loose but satisfyingly persistent, this is another instance where I would enjoy a 2007 in the short run, here, say, 3-4 years. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93