The 2012 Corton Grand Cru comes from vines approaching half-a-century old. It was still undergoing its malolactic fermentation. Bright ruby in color, it has an impressive bouquet with succulent ripe red currant and mulberry fruit. If you could describe a bouquet as being “thick” then this is it. The palate has a tannic, sturdy opening with a sense of solidity imparted by the thick skins and small berries. There is plenty of concentration here with a fine grip on the finish. This will be fascinating to revisit once the malolactics are completed, but it certainly has great potential. It has been three years since I last drove up the steep lanes of Pernand-Vergelesses to visit Domaine Bonneau du Martray. As the heavens opened, I hoped that proprietor Jean-Charles de Bault de la Moriniere (no, I never use his full name in casual conversation either) had fixed the problem of an underground spring that I recalled leaking down his cellar walls, lest barrels of Corton-Charlemagne find themselves bobbing down to the RN74. Jean-Charles had not changed a jot since we our last tete-a-tete, tall and aristocratic in demeanor, loquacious and convivial to a fault, he is the gentleman of Charlemagne. As a significant owner of precious vines on the famous historical Corton hill, specifically the largest holding in “En Charlemagne” that was a prime target for hailstorm, it can be safely said that Jean-Charles has not had a stress-free time. Let’s put a figure on that: 75% of his crop was lost after not one, but two devastating hailstorms. At least other producers have some kind of insurance policy in owning a scattering of parcels so that if one plot of vines suffers hail damage, another will be unscathed. With just two grand crus, Corton-Charlemagne and Corton Rouge, Jean-Charles can only look forward to, is recompense next year. In these situations, one can find solace in the old adage: less is more. “I find the Corton-Charlemagne to be a substantial wine. It is almost like the 2010 with a slightly richer character,” he comments with utmost equanimity. Importer: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C’est Vin, Arlington, VA; tel. (703) 243-3559, Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, Louisiana; tel. (504) 897-0191 and Martin Scott (NY)