The 2008 Pinot Noir Eastside Road Neighbors has a nice, earthy nose with hints of sassafras, strawberry and ripe black cherry fruit, tart acids, medium body and a fresh, lively finish. It is an easygoing, Cote de Beaune-like Pinot that is best drunk over the next 4-5 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Not quite as concentrated as the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings, but nearly so, and showing the signature dryness, acidity and overall classy mouthfeel. Beautiful and complex, with raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, rhubarb, rose petal and cola flavors that arevarietally correct. Drink now–2014.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 93