While the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve Georges de Latour is the strongest wine made at Beaulieu in many years, it is eclipsed by the 2007. The 2006 Georges de Latour exhibits a dense inky/purple color along with a sweet bouquet of graphite, licorice, charcoal, creme de cassis, and sweet cherries. Deep, ripe, and full-bodied with powerful tannins, admirable structure, and superb depth, it will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age, and should be drinkable over the following 25+ years. One of the most dramatic revelations in my California North Coast tastings was the resurrection/renaissance of Beaulieu Vineyard, one of the historic names in California winedom. This was the source of some extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignons in the fifties, sixties, and early seventies, but the winery fell on hard times and was sold (it is now owned by the gigantic Diageo company). However, they have come back with a vengeance over the last few vintages. Michel Rolland, the brilliant wine consultant, was brought in to help resurrect the Private Reserve program, and it appears his magic has spilled over onto the other wines as well.Tel. (800) 373-5896; Fax (707) 967-0428

Even in this vintage, which was not so great, Beaulieu has succeeded with this dramatic, classic Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s absolutely delicious, offering a range of blackberry, black currant and cedar flavors, complexed with notes of chocolate, anise, sweet smoky leather and Asian spices. Beautiful now for its velvety softness, but has the inherent structure to last for a long time. Through 2014, and much longer if you like older Cabernet.——S.H.(12/15/2009)—— 95