The 2000 Barolo is fully in character with the vintage, even if it’s a bit strange to write about the Nebbiolo of this house in terms of perfume and elegance. The nose is entrancing, however, floral, wafting, sweet and lightly smoky with ample and ripe cherry fruit, while the length, continuity, and intensity of the palate mesh beautifully with unusually polished tannins for this Barolo, quite up-front and to drink between 2005 and 2020. It’s something of an eerie feeling to walk into this cellar and not be greeted by Giovanni Conterno, who left us for the big vineyard in the sky at the end of 2004. Nothing to worry about, however, other than a keen sense of regret for the loss of this historic figure – his son Roberto, who worked with his father for over fifteen years, is fully in charge and produced spectacularly promising wines on his own in the 2004 vintage. The house is not particularly known for its Barbera, but it is easily one of the best in the traditional style – aged in casks, not barrels – on the market.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404