This is a tasty, fairly round rendition of Albarino. Dry, with mineral and grass elements, it also displays an intriguing faint orange-tangerine element throughout. The wine maintains a clean crispness without being sharp. This will seem soft to some Albarino purists—and it is—but it’s flavorful and will make converts for the grape among consumers previously unacquainted with this Galician prize. —M.M.——M.M.(4/1/2002)—— 86