The 2011 Prima is a barrel sample, a blend of 90% Tinto de Toro and 10% Garnacha aged in new and used French and American oak for 12 months. The nose is rather reticent with smoky black fruit and a touch of black olive, but the palate appears well-balanced with grippy tannins that segue into a succulent blackberry and spice-tinged finish. I would afford this wine another two years in the cellar once bottled. Drink 2014-2018. Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos is one of the leading lights of Toro. Founded in 1997 by former Vega Sicilia winemaker Mariano Garcia Fernandez, they own 60 hectares of vineyard in San Roman de Villaester and Hornija, mainly planted with Tinta de Toro and Garnacha, the average age of vines around 35 years interpolated with vines on un-grafted rootstock. The oak aging here is very prudent, with around 20% renewed each year, both French and American. The present winemaker is Mariano’s son Eduardo Garcia Montana, who trained in Bordeaux and Burgundy among other regions. These exceptional wines were suffused with personality, purity, a life-affirming sense of “controlled opulence” that, to be frank, put many a more expensive Toro wine in its shade. What is more, a bottle of 2001 San Roman testified to a Toro that truly does age with style and panache. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343

90% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha. Project leaded by Mariano Garcia. 14 months’ ageing in American and French oak. A very user-friendly Toro style. Black fruits, touch of vegetal and not too complex nose. Very rounded and fruity with much softer tannins than expected for a Toro wine. Not too long but very pleasant.