The 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba Coste & Fossati is, as always, one of the two or three benchmark wines of the appellation. A blackish purple in color, its nose of roasted cherries, tar, and chocolate is followed by a full-volume, long, and rich palate, succulent in its sweetness, velvety, caressing, and impressively packed in texture. It too is ready to drink, but will unquestionably last another 4-5 years. Various American importers, including Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808