The 2009 VX Cuvee Caco is a blend of 50% Souson, Caino Longo, Caino da Terra, Carabuneira and Mencia, aged for 20 months in new 300-liter oak barrels (85% French). The nose is a little oaky at the moment and rather obfuscates the fruit character. The palate is very soft and rounded in the mouth. The oak is seamlessly integrated with pure blackberry, licorice and white pepper towards the Rhone-like finish. It would benefit from another 12 to 18 months in bottle. Drink 2014-2025. Coto de Gomariz occupies 27 hectares of vineyard overlooking the Avia river in the DO of Ribeiro, on steep, granitic and sandy soils. Focusing on indigenous varieties and focused upon low yields, winemakers Ricardo Carreiro and Xose Lois Sebio are moving toward biodynamic tenets. Their wines, in particular the red, epitomize the potential of Spain’s more esoteric grape varieties when they are let loose on conscientious winemakers. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com; and in UK, agent is www.indigowines.com