Caprai’s 2005 Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano is a powerful, weighty offering imbued with exotic juniper berries, mint, wild cherries, minerals, licorice and new leather. In recent months the wine’s elegance has begun to emerge as floral red fruit notes have become more expressive and the wilder elements of Sagrantino have largely been tamed. Some edginess remains, but bottle age should help the wine come into focus, and the 2005 Collepiano should age gracefully for another decade or so. Today it is very close in quality to the 25 Anni. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. This is another strong set of releases from Marco Caprai, the producer most responsible for calling attention to the potential of Sagrantino in these hillside vineyards. The estate itself is sprawling, and covers 150 hectares of vineyards planted to various densities and trellising systems that clearly show the enormous expense Caprai has undertaken to fully understand the unique qualities of Sagrantino. At the heart of the property is a large, well-appointed visitors’ center and tasting facility that looks more like something out of Napa Valley rather than rural Italy. My tasting at Caprai was remarkable as I had a chance to revisit a number of older vintages, which will be reviewed in a forthcoming article on www.erobertparker.com. Caprai’s wines tend towards the modern end of the spectrum, with French oak used for both malolactic fermentation and aging. The wines often appear tough when young, but with a few years in bottle they can develop beautifully. In the finest vintages, Caprai’s top wines drink well to age 15 and occasionally beyond. Importer: Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060

Rich, featuring sappy notes of wild blackberry and black currant that give way to assertive tannins on the spicy finish. Drink now through 2016. 1,000 cases imported. -BS