The 2005 Barolo Castiglione is especially taut and focused in this vintage. Floral notes are intermingled with dark red fruit, spices and new leather in this gorgeous, poised offering. The 2005 Barolo Castiglione uncharacteristically needs some bottle age but it offers integrity of fruit that is remarkable. Over the last few years Luca Currado has stepped up the quality of the Castiglione bottling in a major way. Any parcels in this multi-cru Barolo that don’t meet his exacting standards are declassified and used in the Lange Nebbiolo Perbacco (see above). In 2005 the main vineyards in the Barolo Castiglione are Ravera, Bricco del Fiasco, Fossati, and Ciabot Berton; while the fruit from Bussia, Bricco Boschis and Bricco Ravera (Ginestra) ended up being used in that year’s Perbacco. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2025. Vietti has long been an elite, reference-point producer in Piedmont but in recent years brothers-in-law Luca Currado and Mario Cordero have taken major steps to further elevate the quality of their wines across the board. My tasting with Luca Currado encompassed 20-plus Barolos covering vintages 2005 through 2008, including multiple parcels the estate uses for its multi-vineyard Barolo Castiglione. All of the wines were potentially outstanding and some will doubtless turn out to be profound. Vietti fans have much to look forward to in coming years, the biggest decision here will be making choices among a large number of truly special wines. For starters, the 2005s aren’t too far behind the spectacular 2004s. Unfortunately there will be no Barolo Riserva Villero as the vineyard was damaged by hail. The Barolos are fermented in stainless steel, then racked into French oak barriques for the malolactic fermentations. The wines are then moved into Slavonian oak casks where they complete their aging. Over the last few years Currado has gradually lengthened maceration times and taken a more moderate approach to French oak, while limiting yields dramatically, all of which has resulted in an extremely consistent set of Barolos that are easily among the region’s finest. As an aside, long-time visitors to the property will be happy to learn that a much needed renovation to the tasting room is complete. The new facility is strikingly beautiful. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204

Shows sweet berry and perfume on the nose, with rose and raspberry. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a milk chocolate, berry and vanilla aftertaste. Big and chewy. Yet balanced and very pretty. Best after 2012. 4,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Closed, but evident heft and structure.

Thick and bold with dark concentration and intense aromas of coffee, rhubarb and even a touch of carrot cake, Castiglione is a highly recommended Barolo for those who appreciate rich, powerful wines. It makes a big impression in the mouth with firm, drying tannins and long-lasting flavors of dark fruit and spice.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 92