This Spatlese is extraordinary, hovering in that zone bordering perfection in which wines touch the soul. A wine that demands introspection, the 2002 Riesling Spatlese Norheimer Dellchen reveals enormous ripeness in its slate and pear aromas. Light to medium-bodied, displaying mind-blowing focus, refinement, and depth, it demands silence and awe. Portobello mushrooms, candied limes, and flint can be detected in its highly nuanced character as well as throughout its extensive finish. All Hail the King of Spatlese! Donnhoff’s line-up of Spatlesen is second to none. Projected maturity: 2008-2025. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300