The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon contains 3% Merlot. The principal component comes from the Champoux Vineyard (in which the winery is a partner) with contributions from the Klipsun and Taptiel Vineyards, outstanding in their own right. It, too, was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it has a splendid perfume of violets, wood smoke, truffle, Asian spices, black cherry, and black currant preserves. Opulent and mouth-coating, the layers of complex flavors nearly hide enough tannin to support 8-10 years of additional cellaring. The oak, tannin, and acidity are beautifully integrated and the lengthy finish lasts for well over a minute. Purchasers no doubt will want to try a bottle immediately but this towering effort will not reach its peak until 2015 at the earliest and provide pleasure through 2040. I say this with confidence because a 1983 Quilceda Creek Cabernet tasted in May 2008 is at its peak now and should carry on for another 10-15 years.Quilceda Creek Vintners remains a model of consistency. In the outstanding 2005 vintage, Quilceda Creek’s Cabernet Sauvignon remains the benchmark for what can be achieved in Washington and the United States. Some good news from the winery is that beginning with the 2006 vintage, there will be a new vineyard designate, a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Palengat Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The vines are only 7 years old but the potential is enormous as a taste from barrel attests.Tel.(360) 568-2389; www.quilcedacreek.com

Still young, chewy and textural, this stands as a classic Washington 2005 red—lusciously laden with mixed red and black berries, generous and deep; dense and jammy. The mixed berries, red licorice, cherries, layers of butterscotch, toffee and caramel are beautifully integrated and linger seductively into the finish. It has some initial alcoholic heat, but the flavors compensate and go on and on. This is a wine that must be cellared another five or more years before it even begins to pull itself together. If you must pop the cork before then, decant it for at least six hours and more if possible before drinking. ——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 96