A real star in this portfolio is the 2007 Grand Reserve Syrah. Exuberant, flamboyant, flowery blackberry and cassis notes, along with some meat juices and bouquet garni, jump from the glass of this densely purple-colored wine. Full-bodied, opulent, and seductive, it should be drunk in its first 7-8 years of life. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

Here’s a good buy in a big, rich, decadently delicious Syrah. Soft and dry, with refined tannins, it offers flavors of currants, blackberries, cherries, chocolate, licorice, Dr. Pepper cola, black pepper and spices. Easy to like, yet complex.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 90