The St. Aubin 1er Cru is a blend of such vineyards as Dents de Chiens, Montceau, and Remilly. It possesses an earthy, wild mushroom, and honeysuckle-laced nose, as well as a bright, medium-to-full-bodied, deeply rich, and broad personality. Layers of minerals, white flowers, steel, and anise can be found in its crystalline flavor profile. Its admirable finish reveals traces of sweet citrus fruit and flint. Projected maturity: now-2004. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.