The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is another wine in this series that feels weighed down by oak, making it more difficult to recognize the delicate nuances of site, especially for a wine born in one of the most celebrated vineyards in Italy. Cannubi shows floral tones and crushed limestone, but just like Sarmassa and Coste di Rose (the two other special selections in a tall bottle with the light blue capsule), there is a lot of cinnamon and toasted spice to distract you. Production is 15,000 bottles.

Beautiful perfumes and fresh flowers come out of the glass with undertones of sandalwood. It’s medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and a polished and seductive finish. Drinkable but better with a few years of bottle age. Try after 2025.