The 2007 Windthrow is a Rhone-style blend that spent 19 months in oak. It is a multi-regional blend made up of 36% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 19% Counoise, and 18% Grenache sourced from 5 different vineyards. It exhibits a perfume of underbrush, brier, cherry blossom, black cherry, and plum. On the palate it displays some elegance along with plenty of spicy fruit, a smooth texture, moderate depth, and a fruit-filled finish. This attractive Provencal look-alike will provide much pleasure over the next 8 years. Cadaretta’s wines are currently made at a custom crush facility from purchased fruit as the winery waits for its recently planted estate vineyards to come on line. There are two white wines among the current releases.Tel. (877) 810-4939; www.cadaretta.com

Cadaretta’s Windthrow is a limited-release southern Rhone blend of 37% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise and 18% Grenache. The fruit is just ripe enough, clean and juicy, with a spicy and tart mouthfeel. What’s most surprising is the length—the wine seems to gather itself and push on through a full-throttle finish, adding nougat and vanilla custard to the mix.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 90