The 1998 Domaine de Bordeneuve is a medium to dark ruby-colored wine with dense blackberry aromas. On the palate, it offers a soft texture, excellent concentration and extract, and beautiful layers of blackberries and red cherries. Consumers who feel they are being squeezed out of the Merlot market by California's exorbitant prices, should run, not walk, to their nearest retailer to purchase this wine. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

The spicy, violet-tinged aromas of French country Merlot are all over this easy-quaffing red that has just enough nuance to bring it to this level. Not deep, rich or complex, but fruity with pleasant floral qualities and full flavors.——M.S.(12/31/1999)—— 85