The 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Vigneto Antica Chiusina is a gorgeous, exotic wine. Dark red cherries, spices, menthol and licorice burst from the glass in this sexy Vino Nobile. The French oak is present, but nicely balanced by the richness of the fruit. Crushed flowers, licorice and a hint of tobacco are layered into the soft, caressing finish. The Antica Chiusina is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino aged 12 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle prior to release. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella is now the man in charge at Fattoria del Cerro and all of the SAI Agricola properties, which includes La Poderina in Montalcino. Although the wines could use a little more polish, these seem like assignments that require a gentle guide rather than a total revolution. If anything these wines need less, not more. The quality of the fruit of the entry-level wines suggests the raw materials are first-rate. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200