A good, solid wine, but given the vintage and the overall quality of its two most famous neighbors, Montrose and Cos d'Estournel, the 1961 Calon-Segur is a disappointment. The color lacks the great depth and richness of this vintage, and this wine seems much less concentrated and rich than others. In 1987, the wine was fit to drink, but living dangerously with high acidity poking its head through the moderate levels of extract. It remains a mediocre effort, particularly for a 1961. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted, 6/87.

Call it a rough-hewn wine because of its tannic texture and chunky, obvious flavor components of fruit, butter and earth. But it's likable and enjoyable and seems to improve as you sip. Drink through 2000.--1961 Bordeaux horizontal.