A knock-out effort is the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain Mt. Veeder. Mt. Veeder can produce extraordinary wines, but it is apparently a tricky area in which to work. However, those who get it right seem to produce some of the finest Cabernet Sauvignons outside of the Oakville Corridor. This dense ruby/purple-colored 2006 exhibits aromas of blackberries, blueberries, cedar, incense, graphite, and spice. It is big, rich, well-balanced, long, and heady. Sadly, there are only 583 cases. This beauty should drink nicely for two decades or more. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

The huge, thick tannins are all from the wine’s 1,500-foot mountain vineyard, but they’re so soft and refined, the wine is instantly drinkable, although it will age for many years. Tastes dramatically luscious for the depth and length of black currant, olive, chocolate and cedar flavors.——S.H.(6/1/2009)—— 95