Readers looking for Bordeaux at its most elegant with a strong Cabernet Franc personality, a la Cheval Blanc, should check out the finesse-filled, delicate offerings from Les Carmes Haut-Brion, a little treasure tucked beside Chateau Haut-Brion in the Bordeaux suburb known as Pessac. These wines are often difficult to judge young as they appear light in their youth, but tend to put on weight with elevage and bottle age.Tasted on three separate occasions (consistently rated between 89 and 90), the 2003 could be called the “Cheval Blanc of Pessac.” Extremely aromatic, it offers smoky, earthy, sweet black cherry, plum, and fig-like notes as well as a sweet, round mouthfeel, medium body, delicate tannins, a fragile constitution, and beautiful complexity. Irresistible at present, if it puts on weight, it will merit an outstanding rating. Anticipated maturity: now-2017.