The 2009 Barolo Rocche represents a departure from the norm. Between the warm vintage and the use of oak, I found this wine to be over the top. There is beauty here, but you need to look past the forest to see the trees. Inky dark extraction is rounded off by meaty, masculine tones of ripe fruit and spice. The mouthfeel is opulent and velvety. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2025. You can always count on Pietro Ratti for a fine bottle of wine. He is one of the most consistent and bankable producers in La Morra especially for those who enjoy the softer and more sensual side of Barolo. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770