This could be taken for a white Burgundy—or big white Rhone, which is closer to actuality. Mild tropical fruit notes underlie the subtle apple, caramel and toast bouquet. It’s full, dry and rich, yet subdued, with nuanced pear, lemon and mineral flavors. Finishes long and tangy, with elegant oak accents. Drinks well now and should keep nicely through 2005. Editors’ Choice.——W.E.(2/1/2002)—— 91