The 2004 Bionic Frog “Coccinella Vineyard” was aged in 100% Dominique Laurent “magic cask” barrels, 25% of them new. Opaque purple-colored, the wine has a fabulous perfume of violets and lavender as well grilled meat, game, and blueberry compote. Dense, powerful yet elegant, this splendid effort demands a decade of cellaring and should drink well through 2045. If that is not enough, I tasted a barrel sample of a 2005 Grenache which rivals the best grown in the USA. Could it be that before long Manfred Krankl of SQN will be known as the Christophe Baron of the Central Coast?Tel. (509) 526-0686; www.cayuse.com

Smooth, supple and full-flavored, The Bionic Frog shows the characteristic uber-funk that it is known for. But in this new vintage it seems to be a bit less in-your-face than previously. There's plenty of wild herb, beef blood and silage to go around; but the flavors are already fully integrated, the wine viscous and plush with an intensely spicy quality. This is beautiful, thick and meaty yet still lifted through the finish, which keeps adding new scents and flavors as it sails along-vanilla, clove and baking spices.——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 96