The rich 1998 Pinot Noir Carneros displays delicate scents of strawberry and cherry fruit. A touch of smoke, minerals, and spice adds to the attractive, subtle impression of this high-strung, bright, vivacious Pinot Noir. It should last for 6-7 years. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386

The light ruby-colored 1998 Pinot Noir Napa exhibits sweet, smoky, berry, cherry fruit, and underbrush/forest aromas. Crisp and tart, it is ideal for drinking over the next severalyears. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386

From the color— unusually dark for Pinot Noir—to the deeply fruity, earthy aromas, you expect something big, massive and ageworthy, and the first sip confirms this impression. This is serious Pinot. It comes across deep and powerful in the mouth, suggesting plums, sweet blackberries and a hint of sun-warmed tomato, and finishes with a blast of complex oak and spice. Complex now, it calls for complex dishes—the best game birds you can find—and will probably be even better with some time in the cellar. ——S.H.(12/15/2000)—— 92

Smells heavy for a Pinot, with aromas of fresh cement, earth, and—faintly—blackberry. Tannins are light enough, and there’s some fruit there, but the overall impression is heavy-handed. Very dry; finishes a bit rough.——S.H.(10/1/2000)—— 82