The 2003 Eclipse (a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Shiraz from 44- to 71-year-old vines, cropped at one to one and two-thirds tons of fruit per acre) is sensational. A big, sweet nose of blackberries, cherry liqueur, smoke, barbecue spice, licorice, pepper, and earth soars from the glass of this deep purple-hued 2003. Full-bodied and ripe, with no hard edges, a seamless integration of acidity, alcohol, and tannin, and a spectacular finish lasting nearly a minute, this riveting wine should get even better in 2-3 years, and will last for 10-15. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283

This Grenache has some dark, smoldering character but it's still a manageable size. Deep black cherry lurks beneath smoke, ash, and cream aromas and flavors. Finishes with fine, chalky tannins. Open a few hours before drinking. ——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 91