The 2001 The Reserve is 74% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Shiraz aged for 20 months in 70% new French oak hogsheads. From old vines with low yields, the wine is densely colored and glass-coating. It has a splendid bouquet of smoke, pencil lead, tar, espresso, blueberry, and blackberry. On the palate it remains an infant developmentally with full, ripe tannin, gobs of fruit, and great length. It needs a minimum of 10-12 years of cellaring and will drink well through 2040. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; www.yalumba.com

Full-bodied and powerful, this is still quite youthful, powered by Graves-like notes of earth, tobacco and vanilla wrapped around a solid core of cassis. A bit chewy on the finish, but there’s plenty of fruit, too; drink 2010–2020. 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Shiraz.——J.C.(2/1/2008)—— 91