This is always a tough wine to rate, because it starts life out so tannic, it’s practically undrinkable, which forces the critic to predict its future. The 08 is quite astringent, almost rustic in sandpapery toughness. It’s also sweet in raspberry, cherry and blackberry jam, dark chocolate and caramelized oak flavors. Doesn’t seem likely to age well, so drink over the next 3–4 years.——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 89