The 2005 Lirac Reine des Bois white is a blend of nine varietals, but mostly Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette, and Bourboulenc. It is all aged in tank except for a tiny portion of the Roussanne which spends some time in barrel. The 2005 reveals crisp acidity, and notes of orange marmalade and rose water with plenty of litchi and floral notes. It is an exotic, but a classic dry, medium-bodied white that should drink nicely for several years. This is an estate that was a no-brainer for inclusion in my recent book on the world’s greatest wine estates. With 135 acres spread throughout some of the most impressive appellations of the southern Rhone, Christophe Delorme and his brother took over this estate in the early to mid-1990s and have done nothing but produce one exquisite wine after another. Of course, the top cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape are rare and expensive, but this is a place to find terrific Cotes du Rhones and Liracs as well. Delorme is equally adept at dry whites as well as reds, and turns out some stunning roses both under the Cotes du Rhone and Tavel appellations. Visitors to the area will be surprised to find out that Mordoree is actually in Tavel, not Chateauneuf du Pape.Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

A bit pricey for Lirac, but this is very good wine—easily the equal of most white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Exotic tropical fruit comes through on the nose and palate, including hints of papaya and guava. It’s creamy-textured, accented by spicy, peppery nuances. Drink now–2008. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88