The 2009 Gran Reserva is supposedly the classical style and has a Mediterranean nose of aromatic herbs (thyme, oregano) and menthol, with ripe black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, with abundant dusty tannins, slightly drying, not that expressive. It ends dry and doesn-t deliver much pleasure. Drink now-2016. Protos is a cooperative in Penafiel which has 273 members and was created in 1927. Imported by Aviva Vinos, New York, NY; tel. (212) 244-4495, www.avivavino.com