The 2004 Chester Kidder Red Wine is made by Gilles Nicault who is also the winemaker in residence at Long Shadows. It is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. It was aged for 28 months in 90% new, mostly French oak. Opaque purple-colored, it reveals an alluring nose of cedar, leather, pencil lead, espresso, blueberry, and blackberry. Round and ripe on the palate, it borders on opulence while concealing enough tannin to support another 5-7 years of cellaring. The sweet, savory fruit carries through into the lengthy finish. Drink this superb effort from 2013 to 2030. Long Shadows is the brainchild of Alan Shoup, longtime CEO of Chateau Ste-Michelle. It is a consortium of seven different labels, each with its own star winemaker who has a 25% share in the brand. The concept is that each “is dedicated to producing a single Columbia Valley wine representing a ‘best of type’ that reflects the winemaker’s signature style.” For the second straight year, every wine in this portfolio has achieved an outstanding rating. For this, the credit goes to Alan Shoup who put it all together. Tel. (425) 467-9398; www.longshadows.com

The fruit is forward, a melange of tart and spicy berry and currant flavors, and there is enough concentration to warrant additional cellaring. The influence of new oak is unobtrusive, though it is still a vital part of the mix. Overall, a nice step forward for this Long Shadows wine. 58% Cab, 29% Syrah, 10% Cab Franc, 3% Petit Verdot.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 90