The 2008 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo has begun to fill out nicely since I first reviewed it last year. The aromas and flavors wrap around the palate all the way through to the generous finish. Though gorgeous today, the 2008 needs at least a few more years for the characteristic Valentini elegance and depth to develop. Readers who open the wine now should give it plenty of air to allow for some small imperfections in the bouquet to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Valentini is one of Italy's cult producers, known only to a handful of loyal fans. This year I was only able to taste one new release, the 2006 Montepulciano, the first new vintage since 2002. It is a hugely promising wine, but one that is likely to test the patience of those lucky enough to find it. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822

This expressive white opens in the glass to exhibit dried flower, melon and grapefruit zest notes tightly framed on a firm, minerally spine. The finish is long and focused, with an aftertaste of chalk. Drink now through 2014. 1,250 cases made.??–NW??Region: Italy / Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Select to Add