The 2008 Xinomavro Reserve "Vielles Vines" is a very old vines Xinomavro (87 years old), aged in French oak for 24 months, an uptick over the 2007 Reserve, also reviewed this issue. I questioned whether it was such a good idea to increase the oak treatment, but the wine handles it well. Winemaker Angelos Iatridis has scored big here. A year younger, and with that longer time in oak, it is a wine that is a little harder to evaluate early on than the2007. I tended initially to give the edge to the 2007, but this should win the race over the long haul. After some hours open, this 2008 inched ahead. It should have a long enough lifespan to allow the longer oak treatment - which it handles exceptionally well even now - to integrate perfectly. Despite that oak treatment, it should with time show purity of fruit and sunny intensity. Not quite as expressive at the moment as its 2007 sibling, reviewed this issue, it seemed racier. The longer it was open, the more the natural acidity of Xinomavro showed. It does not feel quite as rich and concentrated on opening as the 2007, but that may also be a function of the way this interacts with its acidity. Plus, it fleshes out beautifully with long aeration. After watching this evolve with aeration, I believe this will eventually come into impeccable balance and there will not be a hair out of place, although that may not be until around 2015-2018 or so. It is shut down just now, but a couple of hours of aeration did wake it up. It seems sure to be a big success. Just be patient. At the price points, this and the 2007 (although that will be harder to track down) are simply steals. Drink 2014-2032. Note that the 2007 reds are released and currently in the marketplace. The 2008s were all bottled at the time reviewed, but are largely still being held back for bottle aging. They will be released sometime in mid to late 2011. Alpha is one of those hot estates that should draw consumer attention. Here's a chance to get in at the ground floor, more or less, with two fine vintages in 2007 and 2008. This winery has been considered to be a "comer" for awhile. It's fair to end that talk. They have arrived and are making terrific wines. They have their own style and the Amyndeon terroir is somewhat different than Naoussa, they say, which is the signature appellation for Xinomavro in Greece. Taking that all together, Alpha's wines are more refined and accessible than some of the more rustic versions of Xinomavro. Compare them to Xinomavro from Foundi in Naoussa, also reviewed this issue, and it seems not even to be the same grape. I've often compared Xinomavro to Nebbiolo, but with Alpha, Pinot Noir comparisons seem more apt. There is still attention to structure here and few compromises. The quality steadily improves and considering the small production levels on many of the wines, the output seems to be quite reasonably priced, too. Greek reds are justly acquiring more cachet and this Northern Greek estate is one very fine example of where the region is going.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

The 2007 Xinomavro Reserve "Vielles Vines" is the first bottling of a separately bottled "old vines Reserve" Xinomavro (from 86-year-old vines). Alpha's regular Xinomavro (now replaced by the Hedgehog) previously featured a blend of very old vines, 60% of 80+ years, and 40% younger vines (25 years). This 2007 Reserve was aged in French oak for 18 months. It is wonderful. Mouth coating and deep, with concentration levels not seen on any of Alpha's other wines, this is simply gripping and intense. Yet, it is hardly one dimensional. It is also earthy and complex, and as it airs out it becomes a multi-dimensional wine. At this point in its youth, it is still not really ready, nowhere near as expressive as it may yet become, although with aeration it was approachable. So, if you can still find this, more likely in Europe, prepare to cellar it for awhile. Some may understandably prefer a more traditional, somewhat more rustic Xinomavro style, but there is surely a place for this beautiful and impeccably balanced bottling. Drink 2014-2030. Note that the 2007 reds are released and currently in the marketplace. The 2008s were all bottled at the time reviewed, but are largely still being held back for bottle aging. They will be released sometime in mid to late 2011. Alpha is one of those hot estates that should draw consumer attention. Here's a chance to get in at the ground floor, more or less, with two fine vintages in 2007 and 2008. This winery has been considered to be a "comer" for awhile. It's fair to end that talk. They have arrived and are making terrific wines. They have their own style and the Amyndeon terroir is somewhat different than Naoussa, they say, which is the signature appellation for Xinomavro in Greece. Taking that all together, Alpha's wines are more refined and accessible than some of the more rustic versions of Xinomavro. Compare them to Xinomavro from Foundi in Naoussa, also reviewed this issue, and it seems not even to be the same grape. I've often compared Xinomavro to Nebbiolo, but with Alpha, Pinot Noir comparisons seem more apt. There is still attention to structure here and few compromises. The quality steadily improves and considering the small production levels on many of the wines, the output seems to be quite reasonably priced, too. Greek reds are justly acquiring more cachet and this Northern Greek estate is one very fine example of where the region is going.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211