The 2007 RAMNISTA is a first look, pre-release, based on a winery tasting only. This is beautifully textured, soft and velvety, ripe and surprisingly rich early on. Lurking underneath is still that Xinomavro crispness and power. It is always best to see how these work after they’ve knit together in the bottle and then had some hours of air, so we will have to give this another look. Still, this looks like a very promising Ramnista, perhaps the best I’ve tasted. Drink-2012-2027. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948

The 2006 RAMNISTA, all Xinomavro from this estate known for its work in this region with this grape, is fragrant, nuanced with oak, very earthy and powerful, with significant tannins lurking underneath. I liked the texture here and this shows considerable potential for the future. It will require some patience and the oak certainly needs to integrate better, but there is a lot here for the price. Piemonte fans can deal with this, notwithstanding the initial hit of oak, but it may have some rustic overtones to others. Drink 2011-2025. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948

The 2005 RAMNISTA is all Xinomavro. It is well on the elegant side in the mid-palate, light, high toned, tight and bright, with a bit of funk on the nose, including a whiff of prunes. There might be some volatile acidity here. There is grip on the finish. I liked its texture and its mouthfeel best. The tannins take about two hours or so to moderate to a point where the wine is reasonably balanced. The modest mid-palate coupled with the high toned and somewhat astringent finish gives it a rather austere demeanor. Tasted twice, the pruney note was less pronounced in the second bottle. There were 1,500 cases produced. Drink now-2016. Kir-Yianni was created in 1997, intended to be a premium winery for Boutari, one of Greece’s landmark wine companies. It was named for Boutari’s founder, helped develop its local appellation (Naoussa) and became identified with the Xinomavro grape, one of Greece’s popular native grapes.Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948