Showing some adolescent awkwardness. The young, primary fruit flavors lead into a disjointed palate that shows increasing scents of funk and fish as it opens. A late-breaking streak of coffee syrup does set in, and it is entirely possible that it will knit together in time, but it shows the difficulties consumers face when wines are released so young.——P.G.(7/1/2007)—— 86

Fashioned from 8-year-old vines, there are but 75 cases of the 2004 Pinot Noir Broadley Vineyard. Its sweet red cherry aromas lead to a medium to full-bodied character that seduces the taster with lovely red cherry syrup and jammy raspberry flavors. Pure, expressive, and sensual, this wine also sports a long, flavorful, fruit-dominated finish. Drink it over the next 5 years. www.bergstromwines.com; tel. (503) 554-0468