The 2009 Pinot Noir Cumberland Reserve, a blend of vineyards with Shea and De Lancellotti playing the leading roles. Dark in color for the vintage, it displays an earthy minerality, violets, cedar, black cherry, and black raspberry. Dense and rich on the palate with lots of flavor, this concentrated effort can be approached now but will evolve for 1-2 years and drink well through 2019. Josh Bergstrom now has 5 estate vineyards encompassing 85 acres in 5 AVAs. He has decided to stop working with Riesling (despite the high quality) and focus entirely on Chardonnay in his white wine program.Tel. (503) 554-0463; www.bergstromwinery.com

The Bergstrom Pinot Noirs begin with the 2008 Pinot Noir Cumberland Reserve which sports an alluring nose of mineral, earth notes, spice box, black cherry, and black raspberry. Firm on the palate with layered, spicy fruit packed into its ample (14.1% alcohol) frame, it displays enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years, excellent concentration and balance, and a lengthy finish. It will be at its best from 2012 to 2020. Josh Bergstrom continues to progress toward his goal of working entirely with estate-grown Pinot Noir. Gone are single vineyard cuvees from the Durant, Nysa, and Hyland Vineyards. He has also become increasingly focused on Chardonnay believing that Willamette Valley is capable of producing world-class wines from this varietal.www.bergstromwinery.com