The most serious wine, as usually is the case, is their 2014 Vega Sindoa El Chaparral Old Vines Garnacha, coming from head-pruned Grenache vines all planted earlier than 1940. This is 100% Grenache aged in French oak for nine months and then bottled. There is a peppery/licorice almost Pinot Noir delicacy this wine. It offers up notes of cranberry, black cherry and floral hints. The wine has terrific body, good acidity and underlying, earthy minerality. This is very much an Atlantic maritime-influenced Grenache to drink over the next 2-3 years.

The most expensive wine in the Bodegas Nekeas portfolio is the 2013 Vega Sindoa El Chaparral Old Vine Garnacha. Made from vines planted between 1890 and 1930, with fermentation in French oak, aging on its lees in barrels for five months, it boasts a deep ruby color as well as chalky kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with hints of herbs, licorice and pepper. This dark ruby-hued, medium-bodied, heady, spicy 2013 is a classic Grenache. There are 2,000 cases of this stunning value that, like all of these offerings from Bodegas Nekeas, over delivers. Drink now-2017.

The 2012 El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vine Garnacha is pure, young, herbal and balsamic Garnacha, with aromas of thyme and lavender. It is aged in French oak for six months, and comes through as balsamic and fruity, with aromas of licorice and spices, red berries and enough complexity for a young wine. It’s an easy-to-drink, pleasant version of Garnacha, highly recommended, and at great price. Drink now. Nekeas is a mini-cooperative belonging to eight families from the village of Anorbe in Navarra. They own 225 hectares of vineyards and produce 1.2 million bottles of wine per year. Good quality at sensible prices. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

From the Bodegas Nekeas vineyards planted between 1890 and 1930, the El Chaparral Old Vines is always my favorite wine from this producer. Made from 100% Grenache, or Garnacha, as the winery calls it, the 2010 El Chaparral Old Vines, produced from yields of 1.25 tons per acre, possesses the classic notes of licorice, black raspberries and black cherry liqueur in a full-bodied, sexy, pure and ripe style. This is another amazing value from this winery, which any consumer attempting to maximize his or her purchase power should know by name. Bodegas Nekeas is located in the town of Anorbe, north of Navarra in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Owned by eight separate families, it is a state-of-the-art facility dedicated to value wines that Jorge Ordonez discovered at the beginning of his career. I was a huge fan of these wines when I was covering Spain, and I remain so after tasting through them for this review of the Jorge Ordonez portfolio. Importer: Value Wines from Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA, tel. (781) 461-5767; Fax (781) 461-2570; www.jorgeordonez.com

Nice slate and mineral aromas meld with exotic spice and black-fruit scents; next up is a palate of lively cherry, raspberry and citrus zest. You get plenty of depth and spunk for a good price—wines with this much kick and verve usually don’t sell for this little.——M.S.(4/1/2007)—— 88