Taut, with tomato leaf and smoke undertones to the dark berry and plum fruit, finishing with firm tannins. Has the goods to develop with age. Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Grenache. Best from 2013 through 2016. 110 cases made. -HS

The 2008 Windthrow is a four vineyard blend of 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise, and 17% Grenache aged for 20 months in 36% new French oak. Underbrush, brier, earthy minerals, lavender, black cherry, and blueberry aromas inform the nose of a dense, layered, relatively forward, supple Rhone Ranger offering that can be approached now but will last for another 6-8 years. Cadaretta’s three submissions are all outstanding.Tel. (877) 810-4939; www.cadaretta.com

Windthrow is a southern Rhone-style blend of 36% Syrah, 29% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise and 17% Grenache. Ripe and nicely focused, it wraps sleek raspberry fruit in delicate layers of oak, mineral and acid. Tannins are smooth and subtle; the finish is like a fine pastry lingering in the back of the mouth. ——P.G.(11/1/2011)—— 92

The 2007 Windthrow is a Rhone-style blend that spent 19 months in oak. It is a multi-regional blend made up of 36% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 19% Counoise, and 18% Grenache sourced from 5 different vineyards. It exhibits a perfume of underbrush, brier, cherry blossom, black cherry, and plum. On the palate it displays some elegance along with plenty of spicy fruit, a smooth texture, moderate depth, and a fruit-filled finish. This attractive Provencal look-alike will provide much pleasure over the next 8 years. Cadaretta’s wines are currently made at a custom crush facility from purchased fruit as the winery waits for its recently planted estate vineyards to come on line. There are two white wines among the current releases.Tel. (877) 810-4939; www.cadaretta.com

Cadaretta’s Windthrow is a limited-release southern Rhone blend of 37% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 18% Counoise and 18% Grenache. The fruit is just ripe enough, clean and juicy, with a spicy and tart mouthfeel. What’s most surprising is the length—the wine seems to gather itself and push on through a full-throttle finish, adding nougat and vanilla custard to the mix.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 90