Aromatically restrained, the 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Morgeots is a light to medium-bodied, chewy-textured wine. It exhibits excellent depth to its apple, earth, and pear-dominated character. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949; and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699

Chassagne-Montrachet's Les Morgeots was spared the spring frost and continued to ripen through the hot, dry month of August, due to its terroirs' high percentage of water-retaining clay. Chartron-Trebuchet's 1998 exhibits spicy, stone, and apple scents that lead to a medium to full-bodied, intense, and fresh personality. It is deep, broad, silky-textured, and loaded with pears, fresh earth, minerals, honeysuckle, and hints of mint. Projected maturity: now-2005. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Morgeots has a rich, floral, and perfumed nose. This thick-textured, tangy, medium-bodied, and sultry wine is filled with ripe white berry fruit, earth, and hints of toasty new oak. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

Displaying mouth-watering mineral, marzipan and cake icing aromas, the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Morgeots is a precise, highly-focused, medium-to-full-bodied wine. Its thick, silky-textured, and expansive personality is filled with candied almonds, stones and vanilla beans. This impressive wine should be at its peak between 2000 and 2004. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949, and Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; (800) 525-9699.

In nearly every vintage, Chartron et Trebuchet's Saint-Aubin-La Chateniere is better than most of the other wines. The 1992 is the pick of this generally uninspiring line-up of negociant wines. The 1992 Chassagne-Montrachet-Morgeot is diluted. On a positive note, prices are as low as I have seen them from this firm. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.