The 2009 Zinfandel is a pretty, fleshy wine laced with dried cherries, crushed flowers, plums, worn-in leather and spices. Layers of fruit build gracefully to the round, caressing finish. This is an attractive wine, even if it isn’t totally varietally expressive. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Chateau Montelena. Bo Barrett and his team are going for a food-friendly style. They certainly appear to be succeeding in the endeavor. The signature wines are the Chardonnay and the two Cabernet Sauvignons. The Chardonnay is fermented in steel and aged in oak with no malolactic fermentation or less stirring. There is no question the Chardonnay can age, but personally, I am not sure the wines improve beyond age ten or so, at least not markedly. The Cabernet Sauvignon Estate typically includes 2% or so of Cabernet Franc. The Cabernet Sauvignon is made from purchased fruit and incorporates small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Barrett describes 2008 as a tough vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon. Frost and shatter were an issue earlier in the year, while temperatures rose dramatically later in the summer. Barrett is much higher on 2009 because it presented virtually no problems. Tel. (707) 942-5105

The 2008 Zinfandel Estate displays more pepper, herb and a Provencal-like garrigue character, but the wine finishes short and lacks some stuffing. Drink it over the next several years. Some time ago Bo Barrett and his dad, Jim, decided that they needed to produce a less expensive, more supple textured Cabernet Sauvignon for consumers and restaurants looking for immediate gratification. That goal has been met very nicely by their Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, which is blended with some Merlot. All the fruit comes from the Calistoga appellation. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

The medium ruby-hued 2007 Zinfandel Estate offers a fragrant briery nose revealing notions of pepper, earth, fruit cake and spice. This fully mature Zin is best drunk sooner rather than later given its good but uninspiring constitution. Some time ago Bo Barrett and his dad, Jim, decided that they needed to produce a less expensive, more supple textured Cabernet Sauvignon for consumers and restaurants looking for immediate gratification. That goal has been met very nicely by their Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, which is blended with some Merlot. All the fruit comes from the Calistoga appellation.Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221