The two 1992 white wines I tasted are mediocre. The 1992 Rayas Blanc possesses more acidity than the 1992 Fonsalette Blanc, medium body, but little depth or character. Importers: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Tel. (415) 485-1800 and Robert Chadderdon, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 757-8185

I thought the 1990 Fonsalette-Blanc to be more impressive than the 1990 Rayas-Blanc, a more backward wine that proved to be astonishing when drunk at a restaurant near Orange. Reynaud suggested that the 1991 Rayas-Blanc needs 10-15 years just to reach full maturity! When I last had it, the wine revealed a huge nose of honey and pears, expansive, unctuous flavors, gorgeous extraction of fruit, and a long, alcoholic finish. It should drink well for 15-20 years. Importers: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA and Robert Chadderdon Imports, New York, NY.

I have never been greatly enamored of the white wine of Rayas, but I must admit the 1985 appears to be one of this estate's better efforts. Quite rich, full-bodied, and alcoholic, it is a very big, unctuous wine that should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Last tasted 6/86.

Last Tasted 7/91 This curiosity, served to me by Chef Jullien at the restaurant La Beaugraviere in the Rhone Valley, is not for everyone. Amazingly, the wine was totally clean and pure to smell, with heavy, smoky, earthy, buttery aromas that were followed by even heavier, thicker, glycerin-laden, weighty flavors. There was considerable acidity, but the wine still possessed remarkable freshness and amazing fruit. I cannot say I found it to be complex, but given its amazingly youthful condition, as well as its pure power and intensity, I was sufficiently impressed. Rayas makes one of the most idiosyncratic white wines from anywhere in the world, and I wonder if the newer vintages, which are made in exactly the same manner, will last 45 or more years?