All Grenache, with about 20% to 30% whole bunches, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin is slightly herbal and stemmy on the nose, but those elements are balanced by wonderful black cherry and blackberry fruit. Full-bodied, concentrated yet silky, with a long, briny finish, this is another strong 2020 from the Sabon family.

Marked by scents of garrigue, raspberries and black cherries, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin is full-bodied, rich and tannic but also incredibly ripe and long. The betting here is that the fruit outlasts the tannins and that the wine develops similarly to the stunning 2005.

As usual, the 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin displays more red fruit than the main bottling, being 100% Grenache from sandier soils. Raspberries and cherries appear on the nose alongside subtle hints of garrigue. The full-bodied palate is almost airy in feel, supported by a latticework of silky tannins and bright acids, while simultaneously adding bass notes of dark chocolate and licorice that linger on the finish. It's an impressive effort.

The all-Grenache 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin is sourced from sandy soils and ages in a combination of foudres and demi-muids. It shows more structure than the regular cuvée, supporting the ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit with bright acids and velvety tannins. Full-bodied and rich, it's long, picking up hints of licorice on the finish.

The terrific 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin has lived up to my expectations from last year's visit. It's 100% Grenache, includes some parcels planted back in 1912, and half was vinified with stems. From sandy sites, it showcases the ability of Grenache to ripen fully yet retain a sense of elegance and lightness. It's full-bodied and velvety but also vibrant, with black cherry fruit and hints of chocolate balanced by incredibly silky tannins and freshness on the finish. Really impressive stuff.