Daniel and Gerard Vinet's 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie confirms the consistency of the Quilla cuvee that comes to the U.S. and allays any concerns that the warm 2009 vintage might have pushed them even further in the direction of some recent (for Muscadet) relatively high-alcohol if still excellent renditions from this address. Here there is a lovely aura of levity and refreshment that are all-Muscadet, with lemon, herb, oyster (flesh, brine, and shell!), and subtly chicken stock-like flavors slightly reminiscent of Chablis. Yet there is also that certain crystalline sense of saline minerality so hard to capture in words but so inimitably of this appellation. The presence of an alkaline and prominently bitter element in the finish - taken together with a certain austerity that I frankly find appealing - may not be everybody's cup of Melon. This cuvee should be enjoyed over the next couple of years. (For another Vinet property, see under 'Domaine Saint Martin.')Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Daniel and Gerard Vinet’s 2007 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie drinks the way a terrifically fresh salad of cresses and lettuces with lemon dressing would eat: delicate yet with intense flavor, full of crunch, with chalky mineral sensations, and utterly refreshing. Salt, chalk, and citrus zest and pips positively stain the palate in the finish. This should remain delightful and versatile for at least the next 12-18 months.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.