The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie delivers a pretty bouquet of pear, waxy citrus rind and almond paste. Medium to full-bodied, its satiny attack segues into a nicely concentrated core that's underpinned by lively acids, concluding with a precise finish.

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie exhibited a pleasant reduction on the nose, behind which lies pleasing waxy, linseed aromas that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is pretty with a lively entry, hints of peach skin and nectarine, well balanced with good volume on the finish. Drink over the next four or five years. Six barrels produced compared to 19 in 2017!

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie has an attractive bouquet with orange blossom, clear honey and a touch of pralines - all very generous. The palate is well balanced with a lightly honeyed entry, a fine fatness here but perhaps just missing a little persistence on the finish at the moment. It is outflanked by the domaine's other premier crus at this moment, but should meliorate by the time of bottling.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Maltroie has a well defined bouquet with a little more new oak that is nevertheless, nicely integrated. The palate is rounded on the entry, slightly honeyed on the entry with peach and nectarine interlacing the persistent finish. There is good substance here, tangible weight in the mouth, if not quite the panache of sophistication of other premier crus from Fontaine-Gagnard.

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie comes across as soft, delicate and polished. Sweet honeyed tones give the fruit a veil of richness and generosity that stands out in this range. Dried pears, hazelnuts and spices flesh out on the sweet, inviting finish. This is a very beautiful Chassagne in a range full of great, great wines. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446