Bursting with notes of orange oil, fresh peach and pear, Céline Fontaine produced only two barrels of the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes—and one barrel is new, so the wine also carries a patine from its time in oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and succulent, it's lively but open-knit, with a delicately perfumed finish.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chenevottes is matured in one-third new oak, though don't get excited because that one-third represents just a half-barrel. Do the math! It has a slightly richer bouquet than the Clos des Murées, still well defined with yellow plum and jasmine scents that are entrancing. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, edgy tannin here lending tension and nervosité, a hint of white chocolate towards the finish. This is a superb Chenevottes that will age with style.

The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chenevottes, from 0.10-hectares of vine, has a touch of wax resin infusing the citrus fruit. It just needs to show more delineation. The palate is smooth and rounded in the mouth, quite harmonious with well-judged acidity. The new oak shows through more toward the finish, but that should be integrated with time. Enjoy this over the next 5 to 6 years.

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes shows the sunny, radiant personality of the vintage in its generous fruit. Despite its ripe, exuberant personality, the Chenevottes maintains considerable freshness, not to mention fabulous overall balance. Ripe succulent peaches, mango, flowers and slate wrap around the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446