The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean has also turned out well, unfurling with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely defined, its fleshy core of fruit balanced by juicy acids.

Aromas of green apples, Meyer lemon, citrus blossom, pear and wet stones introduce the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean, a medium to full-bodied, pure wine that's quite taut and structured this year, with good grip and focus, concluding with a long finish. While this is sometimes a cuvée that drinks well out of the gates, this rendition will reward a couple of years' bottle age.

The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St Jean, the parcels tucked into the village more or less, has a well-defined nose of orange pith and a subtle smear of dried honey. The palate is well balanced with a lightly honeyed texture, veins of tropical fruit with hints of mango and passionfruit toward the finish. This is a generous Chassagne-Montrachet that will give much pleasure in its youth.

The 2015 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean has a crisp, honeysuckle and jasmine-scented bouquet that has better delineation than the Maltroie. The palate is well balanced with moderate weight in the mouth. The acidity is nicely poised with stem ginger notes surfacing towards the finish. There is a sense of "correctness" here, but there is nothing wrong with that at this early stage.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St Jean has a composed, mineral-driven bouquet that is nicely focused and assimilated with the new oak (33%). The palate is crisp and taut, more linear than the Maltroye, gently fanning out to a citrus-driven, spicy finish. Again, this is a very fine Chassagne that will give pleasure over the next ten years.