Notes of orange oil, pear, peach, yellow apples, fresh bread and nutmeg introduce Boillot's 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, satiny and concentrated wine that's textural and enveloping, with an ample core of fruit, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. More tightly wound than the demonstrative 2018, his is a superb effort that will reward bottle age.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is brilliant, unfurling in the glass with scents of ripe oranges, fresh pear, peach, buttered citrus, warm pastry and anise. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and an ineffable sense of completeness, concluding with a long and mineral finish.

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is among the most reserved wines in the cellar, unfurling in the glass with a reticent bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and light reduction that wasn't revealing its full range when I tasted it. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with broad shoulders and evident power, concluding with a stony finish, but the full extent of its quality is hard to read.

The 2013 Montrachet Grand Cru has a complex bouquet: subtle grilled walnut notes tincturing the mineral scents. It is reticent at first, but unfolds nicely in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with good weight, nicely judged acidity, plenty of mineral notes, although the finish is just a little conservative. Still, there is a pleasant saline note lingering on the aftertaste. Give this several years in bottle - it just needs to develop more "charm."