The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with a complex bouquet of citrus oil, white currants, fresh peach, tangerine, freshly baked bread and a nicely integrated framing of new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with striking reserves of concentration, racy acids and compelling amplitude without weight. While this is still quite youthfully primary, it's a superb Montrachet that lives up to the reputation of this great vineyard. Bottled under Diam 10, it's built to reward some bottle age.

Tasted blind, the 2015 Montrachet Grand Cru from Olivier Leflaive performed very well indeed, offering up an attractive bouquet of white flowers, fresh apricot and peach, framed by a generous but not exaggerated application of creamy new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, racy and pure, with a textural attack and deep core that give way to a bright, mouthwatering finish. It's a bright but dramatic Montrachet that should offer a broad drinking window.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru had a slightly disjointed nose, the SO2 not as well integrated as the Montrachet from Domaine Marc Colin. That SO2 actually gets worse in the glass. The palate is sweet on the entry, soft in the mouth with moderate acidity, yet from start to finish that SO2 suppresses the fruit and terroir expression so that it ends up as a generic white Burgundy rather than a Montrachet that revels in its superiority. There are other wines from Olivier Leflaive that I would choose over this even without considering the price.