The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is also very promising, unwinding in the glass with a reserved nose of orchard fruit, nutmeg, freshly baked bread, orange oil and spices. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's layered and concentrated, with real texture and intensity. This is still on the lees in barrel, so it's not so advanced in its élevage as the other wines in the cellar, but it's full of promise.

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru has turned out beautifully in bottle, opening in the glass with integrated aromas of pear, citrus oil, fresh bread and white flowers. Full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's elegantly textural, deep and complete, with terrific balance, fine concentration and a long, nicely defined finish.

Damien Colin produced the equivalent of two and a quarter barrels of the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru, so he supplemented a once used barrel with a specially ordered one and a quarter barrel for its élevage. Unfurling in the glass with notes of citrus oil, warm bread, green pear, nutmeg and white flowers, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a textural attack, succulent acids, superb concentration and a long, penetrating finish. While this is a little shut down after its recent bottling, this will be quite an extroverted, expressive vintage of Colin's Montrachet.